Why doesn't AT-1 split well?

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Offline DarthPhineas

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Re: Why doesn't AT-1 split well?
« Reply #15 on: December 27, 2015, 08:15:07 PM »

Darth - Do you find that you need to have your AT-1 really close to the strings?

Nah. I space it normally, starting at about 3/32" on the low E and about 1/32" on the high E and then tweak from there.
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Offline KellyB

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Re: Why doesn't AT-1 split well?
« Reply #16 on: December 27, 2015, 09:28:29 PM »
Try snipping the prs treble bleed.

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Offline Moovylucky

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Re: Why doesn't AT-1 split well?
« Reply #17 on: December 28, 2015, 11:14:40 AM »
How would the high pass filter (treble bleed) effect the output of the AT-1? It has not effected output in any other pickup I've had in the guitar.

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Offline eclecticsynergy

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Re: Why doesn't AT-1 split well?
« Reply #18 on: July 25, 2016, 01:18:29 PM »
As an FYI, I was reading a thread recently over at TGP about splitting a 36 Anni PAF, where the poster really didn't like the split tone he was getting, even with a resistor in the ground shunt to beef it up a bit.

After some experimenting he discovered the problem was that the DiMarzio didn't like the stock treble bleed in his PRS, and said his split sound was greatly improved by switching the cap value.

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Offline darkbluemurder

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Re: Why doesn't AT-1 split well?
« Reply #19 on: July 26, 2016, 03:55:43 AM »
My experience with splitting humbuckers is that if you use a humbucker with a 500k volume pot, the split tone will be too bright since the resonant peak of one working coil with a 500k volume pot is too high. I add a 470k resistor to ground which is only engaged in the split mode so that in split mode the pickup sees a load of approx. 235k - 240k. This reduces the resonance peak of the coil and gives the sonic impression of reduced excessive brightness and a rounder tone - very effective. This works also well for the parallel mode (my thanks go to RayBarbeeMusic for sharing this information here).

Cheers Stephan
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Offline RayBarbeeMusic

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Re: Why doesn't AT-1 split well?
« Reply #20 on: July 26, 2016, 10:24:32 AM »
In addition to that resistor, add a .001uf to .0033uf cap that engages when in split or parallel.  That further takes the edge off. 

Say you have this on your push/pull:

1    2
3    4
5    6

Where 4 is the negative from coil 1 and has a jumper to 1, 3 is positive from coil 2, 5 is positive from coil 1 and also goes to your pickup selector or volume pot depending on the guitar, and 6 is ground.  Ground of coil 2 can go to 6 or the pot casing, doesn't matter either is ground.

In the "down" position, 3 connects to 1 (which is jumpered to 4) so your pickup is in series (positive of coil 2 connected to negative of coil 1).  In the "Up" position, the negative of coil 1 connects to 6 (ground) so it operates as it's own coil, 3 connects to 5 so hot of coil 2 connects with hot of coil 1, i.e. 2 single coils in parallel. 

Now connect a 470k to 500k resistor and a .001uf to .0033uf cap from 4 to 3.  In the "down" position, 4 is jumpered to 1 and so shorted to 3, the resistor and cap have no effect when the pickup is in series humbucker mode. But when you go to the "up" position, 3&5 (hot from both coils) short and now see that resistor and cap to ground (remember 4 shorts to ground (6) when switch is "up") in parallel with your volume pot.  So if you're using a 500-550k pot, your two single coils in parallel now see an appropriate volume pot load for a single coil (250k ish) and excess high end is also shunted by the small cap. 

Works wonders.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2016, 10:26:18 AM by RayBarbeeMusic »